Master Cylinder Conversion Instructions
This kit is a
bolt on replacement for your original Econoline single or dual
cylinder. If installing on a 1967 Econoline you will
need a 1961-66 brake pedal and pushrod,
the 67 is different and will
cause problems if used with this application. Please note that
brass pivot bushing in the bracket is a close tolerance fit, much
more so than the stock
plastic bushings used in the original Ford
application. You may need to de-burr the outside
edge of the pedal
pivot with a file in order for the pedal to slide freely into the
There are 2 kits, one requires a remote reservoir which you must provide
and are readily available
through many different companies depending
on the type and style you prefer. The other kit comes
with a reservoir, clamps, hoses and adapters. I recommend mounting the remote
fill inside the
doghouse for easy access and be sure to use brake
fluid resistant hose with the remote reservoir.
D&D Brakes will
not be responsible for any damage that occurs if proper tubing or
correct pedal and pushrod are not used.
The original dust boot for
the Econoline will fit on your new conversion.
will work on a drum/drum, disc/drum or 4 wheel disc application
depending on the master cylinder bore used. If you have ordered the
15/16 bore cylinder (disc/drum) it comes with internal residual
valves installed and no further plumbing is needed except for that
included in the kit. The 1 bore (disc/disc or drum/drum) has NO
internal residual valves installed and will require the use of inline
residual valves available from Wilwood or jegs.com which you must
acquire yourself. Drum brakes require 10 lb. residual while disc
require a 2 lb. Please be sure to install the correct residual
for the application. The residual valves must be placed inline as
close to the master cylinder as possible but safely out of the way.
or front disc outlet is the or smallest port on the master
cylinder. Make certain to route your lines correctly. Some
modification is required on the emergency brake bracket before
installing with the master cylinder. You will need to remove a small
amount of material from the rear of the bracket at the shaft end to
avoid interference with the outlet line for the primary outlet. You
will also need to notch the bracket for line clearance for the
secondary outlet port. Neither of these modifications will affect the
strength of the bracket itself. The picture at
shows how I notched the bracket for my own use for the secondary
port, once assembly has begun you will be able to determine how much
material to remove for clearance for the primary port. The line is a
close fit with the emergency brake bracket so be sure you have enough
material removed so there is no contact between the line and the
bracket. Depending on the condition of your bracket, by that I mean
possibly being bent over the years you may need to install a washer
between it and the master cylinder bracket itself to gain proper
clearance for the line. This will not affect the operation of the
emergency brake nor it's location in the vehicle, the hole in the
floor is sufficient size for this small amount of movement. There may
also be a need to notch the MC frame bracket in order for the ear on
the new bracket to be installed. Some require this others do not, no
real explanation but it has happened in the past.
line supplied with the 90 degree bend is the line for the rear port. This is supplied with the kit since it has the
correct fitting and it is impossible to bend a standard steel line
for clearance without collapsing it. This is also a good place to
install a residual valve if needed for your application. The line
will bend quite easily so you can position it where needed. Once
everything is bolted up be sure your lines are all tight and
thoroughly bleed the system. This is a totally new application and
will require some time to be sure all the air is evacuated from the
system. Check all lines and fittings again to insure there are no
leaks. If you have the 15/16 bore master cylinder (disc/drum) you
will notice a difference in pedal travel, this is normal and will
just require getting used to it.
supplied with your kit is the new stop light switch which mounts
directly to the brake pedal under the floor. Simply bolt the bracket
to the pedal, adjust the switch so it contacts the floor when static
and run two wires from the switch to your original brake light wires
from your old switch.
REMOTE RESERVOIR & BRAKE LINE MODS
You will also have to purchase your own remote reservoir, hoses and fittings to the master cylinder adapters.
I would like to supply these with the kit but there are just to many options for remote reservoirs.
Your stock brake line configuration will need to be altered as well. You will need to have both rear brake
lines into a "T" and a single line coming from that to the master, both front brakes will also need the
same setup. You may need to purchase additional adapters or lines to get this done, I can't tell you
exactly what you will need unless I can physically look at your econoline. It may have been
changed/modified over the years from a stock configuration.
MAKE SURE TODOUBLE CHECK ALL NUTS, BOLTS AND LINE FITTINGS TO BE SURE
TIGHT AND LEAK FREE! Safety is the key here so lets be sure
everything is correct before you hit the road. If you have any
questions please contact us. D&D will not be responsible for any
modifications to this application or any damage done or costs due to
You will also have to purchase your own remote reservoir and hoses. I would like to supply these with the kit but there are just to many options for remote reservoirs.
All in all this is the best upgrade to the Econoline yet.
Late model parts, off the shelf and years of reliability, besides the safety factor of having
a dual reservoir without having to spend big bucks on a 67 MC even if you can find one.